1890's Man's Nightshirt
White cotton floor length man's nightshirt
Nightshirt has a et on collar with front points - no interfacing in collar. 13.5" center front placket with 3 button/'buttonhole closure. 6" x 5" patch pocket at left chest; curved/shaped double layer of fabric for ~1.5" at top edge of pocket; curved bottom edge of pocket. Long set in sleeves inserted shirt sleeve style; shaped double layer of fabric at wrist - 3.5" wide at top of sleeve and 1.5" wide at sleeve seam.
Yoke across enter back 3" below collar; nightshirt gathered to yoke at back. Curved shirttail hem 13" deep at side seams; front hem with curved edge and 5" shorter than back hem.
HCT.1986.185.55
c.1897-1899
1890s At-Home Gown
Blue cotton chambray tea gown with chainstitch embroidery trim and large leg-o-mutton sleeves; a) dress, b) bustle pad
a.) Dress
Dress has the appearance of a pleated under gown with fitted open outer robe but it is all one piece, closing at CF with small diameter but thick mother-of-pearl whistle buttons. Only 3 buttons appear at the waist, which is tightly gathered in several rows giving an appearance of smocking. This is repeated with less rows at the CF neck. The 3 buttons are stitched to the outside, hiding a hook and eye closure underneath. The bodice has an undyed cotton lining/underbodice.
The outer robe has large leg of mutton sleeves that end in deep cuffs trimmed with white cotton chain-stitch embroidery. The same embroidery motif appears at the hem of the robe, only reversed. A smaller with panel of chain-stitch embroidery creates the 2 front edges of the robe that continue into the collar which stands up to frame the neck. Embroidery is on the inside and outside of the collar that is gathered in back to fit into the neck curve. The robe has no waist seam, but princess fitting darts and seams only CB and side backs to accommodate extra fullness for the bustle pad and width of hem.
HCT.2002.6.3
1894-1896
Black Lace and Satin Short Cape
Black lace and satin circular cape, violet silk flower trim at neckline, satin flounce dotted with small jet beads.
HCT.1987.319.6
1893 Tan Silk Wedding Dress
Tan silk gown having a double-breasted bodice trimmed with black and tan stripe wide lapels, lower part of leg-of-mutton sleeves and bottom of bodice. Wide tan satin ribbons and large paisley buttons also embellish bodice. The five-gore A-line skirt is cartridge pleated center back and trimmed with a gathered self-fabric band at hem which sweeps asymmetrically up to another satin bow on left front of skirt. 1893
HCT.1996.16.1a-c
1893
Shirtwaist and Wool Walking Skirt
Blouse of white batiste. Front features lace and embroidery panel framed by vertical rows of pin-tucks and lace . 6 3/16 decorative shank buttons spaced down center front. Vertical pin-tucks extend from shoulder seam. Stand up collar with stays on sides and back is formed of rows of lace and bound with 1/2" bias strip. Back has vertical rows of pin-tucks and lace. Closes in back with 7 3/8" sew through buttons and buttonholes. Tape tie attached at back waist on right side. Long set in sleeves with rows of pin-tucks and lace insertions spaced 3 1/2" apart down entire length of sleeve, finished with 1" lace ruffle. The skirt has an A-line shape. The upper skirt is made up of 7 gores, three in the front, one on each side and two large pleated gores in the back. The skirt is unlined and the skirt pieces were cut with pinking shears.The bottom of the skirt is made up of a large asymmetrical piece that has been cut on the bias and is decorated in three tiers of bias wool strips trimmed in black ribbon. It is attached to the body of the skirt just under the top tier of trim. The second and third tiers of trim are sewn on to the skirt and the raw edges are encased under the black ribbon that trims the top of each tier. Near the hem on each side of the skirt is a crescent shaped piece of wool, mostly hidden under the bottom tier. These crescent pieces were required in a bias cut skirt to create a straight hem. This lower part of the skirt was cut on the bias to give the skirt more movement and volume without adding a lot of bulk. From the floor the bias piece measures about seventeen inches tall at center back and nine inches tall at center front. The hem of the skirt is finished on the underside in a heavy woven ribbon to give the hem structure and shape.The waistband of the skirt is piece of cotton sateen that has been folded and half and stitched along the bottom, encasing the top edge of the skirt. The two back gore panels are pleated at the top of the skirt toward the center back seam line, leaving about a quarter of an inch between them, and stitched down the length of the closure, about 7 inches. The skirt fastens at center back with five hook and eye closures, one on the waistband and four in the skirt, which are off set to the right of the center back seam and hidden under the right pleat. The pleat also hides the slit opening of the skirt, which is bound in a narrow satin ribbon.
HCT.1985.21.6 & HCT.1996.38.49
1895-1905
1891 Silk Wedding Dress
Off-white silk jacquard and crepe gown with long train, leg-of-mutton sleeves and a lace jabot peeking out from an open collar and repeated at the wrists. The dress recalls elaborate styles worn at 18th century European courts with its white jacquard outer robe covering a crepe underskirt. The outer dress fabric is similar to those used by Charles Frederick Worth, grandfather of Parisian haute couture
HCT.2002.43.1
1891
1893 Blue Satin and Brown Velvet Dress
blue satin and brown cut velvet stripe with brown velvet sleeves and belt; ice blue satin yoke; 5 rhinestone rectangular clasps; 6 brown crochet buttons at wrists; silk lining in bodice and skirt; hook closure in front of bodice and skirt; bustle skirt; pocket on right side of skirt.
HCT.1995.999.36
1893
1890's Grey bodice and skirt with chiffon and applique
2 piece steel grey ottoman silk dress; sleeves and bodice trimmed with embroidered chiffon and embroidered applique in a floral motif; satin ribbon and bow at waist; bodice lined in cotton - skirt lined in silk; hook closure in front of bodice and in back of skirt; balloon sleeves have interior hoop construction.
HCT.1995.999.40ab
<span>Additional fiber images and information available at <a href="http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/1890-1899,_grey_bodice_and_skirt_with_chiffon_and_applique,_silk_applique_flower" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.</a></span>