Bodice with round piped neckline and center front opening to waistline has 11 goldstone(see notes) buttons and buttonholes closure. Button shanks secured through unfinished holes in bodice with strip of brown twill fabric that runs through shanks and is stitched to bodice underlining; hand-worked buttonholed. Rectangular strip of self fabric (2.5" x 1/5") at center front lower proper right edge of bodice extends from under right bodice and has two hooks to secure bodice and full skirt beneath in place. Hooks fasten to metal loops on small fabric extension under bodice front left and attached to skirt front left. Two darts on each side of front bodice from waistline seam and extending toward bust form V-shaped design. Bodice back with curved and top-stitched princess seam from center back waist to mid-point of back armscye. Shoulder seam slightly to back of garment. Piped waistline seam. Bodice fronts underlined with light brown cotton twill fabric, bodice backs lined with light brown cotton plain weave.

Pagoda sleeves set into dropped shoulder piped armscye with stitched-down box pleats to control fullness at sleeve cap. Two inch black velvet band encircles and trims edge of sleeve hem. Sleeves lined with blue cotton chintz and faced with dark brown cotton chintz.

Very full, floor length skirt--6 selvage to selvage panels ~24" wide, unlined with cartridge pleats at waistline seam. Ten inch long open placket below waistline seam of skirt slightly left center front. Hem faced 5" wide with blue cotton chintz fabric found in sleeve linings. Brown wool braid finishes edge of skirt hem.

One inseam pocked of tan cotton chintz in skirt right front. Same chintz faces cartridge pleats.

Garment entirely hand-stitched.]]>

Bodice with round piped jewel neckline and center front button opening to piped waistline seam with nine 3/4" floral motif metal buttons and hand worked buttonhole closures. Hook and eye at front waistline just left of center. Garment hand sewn.

Two inch wide silk ruching in solid contrasting color (bronze like tan) extending from waistline up center front veering out over shoulder and continuing around upper back encircling neckline of garment. Front bodice has four strips of boning (two each side) in darts from waistline seam extending up into garment six inches, and one bone right center front next to buttons. Bodice fronts extend to side back.

Garment back has two seams emanating 1/4" from center back at piped waistline seam, curving and ending at mid-section of back sleeve seam; seams top-stitched. Bodice underlined with heavy dark gold colored cotton twill fabric.

Drop shoulder, long, full barrel sleeves with matching silk ruching at the shoulder and lower hem edge, with ruching encircling arm. Sleeve underlined with polished cotton, wrist facing silk fabric same as decorative ruching. Armscye seam piped similar to neckline and waistline seams.

Very full floor length skirt, six panels, with cartridge pleats around entire waist. Two hooks to secure center front placket opening in skirt--one on bodice waist; one corresponding loop on bodice, the other on inside of skirt "waistband" extension. Skirt completely underlined with dark gold colored polished cotton. Hem finished with 1/2" braid.
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Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]>

Back bodice features back shoulder seams and side back seams from waist to armscye plus two curved princess seams emanating from 7/8" from center back at waistline seam to same point of side back seams at armscye; seams top-stitched. Right bodice front is pieced at side seam; patch repairs under arms. Bodice underlined in cotton twill fabric. Waistline seam is piped.

Dropped set in long pagoda/bell sleeves (armhole seam also piped) with triangular shaped inset extending from above outside elbow down to sleeve hem. Two rows of brown 2.5" silk fringe trims sleeves -- one row at sleeve hem edge; one row outlining seam of triangular shaped inset. One inch diameter braided (non-functioning) button with tassel used as trim on each sleeve at top point of triangular inset. Sleeve underlined in tan polished cotton and self-faced.

Very full floor length skirt with small, fine pleats--sloppy cartridge pleats--to control fullness. Six panels 21" selvage to selvage. Inside waist excess fabric shows evidence of alterations and use for repair. Four inch long center front placket opening in skirt. Pocket of bodice lining material (tan cotton) in skirt side front seam. Skirt unlined; hem faced with 8" wide polished tan cotton. Edge of hem finished with purple wool or hair braid.

Garment entirely hand sewn.]]>
Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]>

Bodice front has waistband with front fullness gathered into it; center front opening of dress extends into skirt 8", with 3 shell buttons and buttonholes on bodice over fitted inner bodice of white cotton that has 2 front waist darts and fastens with brass hooks and eyes. Bodice fronts extend to side back and back shoulder seams; bodice back has no additional seams. Bodice waist seam piped at lower edges where it attaches to skirt.

Full skirt, six 24.5" wide panels, cartridge pleated and sewn to bodice; one 1" horizontal tuck 11.5" from hem decorates skirt; self-fabric pocket at side front seam; 6.5" hem facing of tan cotton; narrow turned-up hem.]]>
Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]>