a) knee length collarless coat with long sleeves having 5" deep turn-back cuffs added to bottom of sleeve; two inset hip pockets with shaped pocket flaps; front, cuffs and pocket flaps all have thread-worked faux button holes with corresponding gold textured tombac metal buttons with wood backs and yarn 'shanks'. Back skirt pleats decorated with a button at top and secured with a button at bottom, creating a slit. The coat body has chest padding and is lined with off-white silk and underlined with a loosely-woven off-white wild silk; the sleeves have a linen lining.

b) below waist length matching collarless vest/waistcoat with smaller (3/4" dia.) similarly textured gold color metal buttons with decorated metal backs and shanks; shaped pocket flaps at hips with 4 buttons (may originally have been working pockets); off-white cotton canvas back and back lining, with trapezoidal pieces of fuzzy cotton (flannel?) twill weave at lower back; off-white linen tabs hand-sewn to vest back with gold color metal buckle attached to proper left tab; off-white silk front, collar and skirt facing; front of vest flat-lined with white linen--having 2-3" strip of white wool plain weave padding above pocket flap between linen and silk facing (now only on proper left); back of vest and lower front show signs of alteration--center back seam split and enlarged, enlarging godets between back and sides at upper side seams, replacement silk facing lower left front.

c) Matching knee breeches with self covered button fly and hand-worked buttonhole front closure and front double pockets held closed with a self covered button; waistband 4.5" center front reducing to 3.25" center back; back waistband has replacement velvet 7.25" proper right and 6" proper left; 3 buttons on CF waistband, 2 replacement fabric buttons lower front fly closure; back waistband and top of breeches split 5" total; evidence of waistband ties (missing); full back seat of trousers gathered into waistband; breeches lined with fuzzy cotton 2:1 twill; interior waistband pocket right front; bottoms of breeches longer in front and cut out in back to accommodate bending knee; button closures match vest buttons; buttonholes faced with off-white silk.
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Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]>

Elbow length sleeves feature two tucks at inside elbow to shape sleeve. Sleeves also lined with plain weave linen. Sleeves generally set-in style with squarer rather than round sleeve caps, points of the squares pointing toward each other in back.

Skirt: Very full with small pleats (about 3/8") controlling fullness at bodice/skirt seam. Skirt does not meet at center front. Petticoat is needed to fill gap at front of skirt. Open slits with finished edges at left and right hip of skirt to allow hands to access pockets. Linen tapes sewn to waist seam and skirt panel allow creation of rear bustle or polonaise effect when tied together.]]>
Petticoat made from 6 panels, selvage to selvage and 2 narrower sections at side-backs with a godet at hem; pleated at waist with drawstring closure; has pocket slits at sides; Neck edge, front and hem of gown and front of petticoat trimmed with varying widths of striped gauze embroidered sporadically with pink, green and white motifs; pleated china silk trim w/pink and green tassel fringe on skirt fronts and front of petticoat only; some china silk pleating replaced with pleated gauze around neck, sleeve hems, and parts of petticoat and hem decoration. Bodice lined with linen; center back has 6 pairs of thread-worked eyelets in lining; center back seam stitched together.]]> Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]> ]]> Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]> - Round flat collar (3.25" wide) with 1" gathered ruffled of same fabric around outer edge; corded ruffle edge
- Front yoke 7" below front neckline; lower section of dress hangs smoothly (no gathers/pleats/fullness) below yoke seam
- Back yoke similar to empire line. Curved seams from side fronts to armholes form triangular units of fabric at side backs. Curved upper sides of triangular pieces have cording inserted into seams to upper back of garment.
- Back skirt hangs at sides with no fullness; center back area of yoke with 6" section to which skirt is fully gathered. 2" wide double ruffle, corded on edges, attached over center back gathered seam
- Shoulder detail, slightly to back of standard shoulder seam, with 1.5" wide band, corded on both edges, and extending from neckine to armhole seam.
- Set in long sleeves, pleated at cap; double ruffle at wrist with edge of ruffles corded
- Center front opening 12" down from neckline; lower section has faux closing with seven small buttons sewn on top to fabric; small shank buttons (3/8") in green and gold appear to have crocheted cover in green and gold to match fabric
- No side seams to garment. Seams at side backs for section that is gathered at back yoke; center front is hand stitched below placket opening.
- Entire garment is hand-stitched]]>
Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]>
Over-long full sleeves are cut on the crosswise grain. Hems are turned up selvages. They attach to bodice sides and back underneath decorative draped piece. This detail features a strip of fabric approximately 4-5 inches wide, gathered up every three inches across top of sleeve, stitched to neckline but also underneath armhole front to back, covering armhole seam. Sleeves very full and loose at hem edge but controlled with strip of ribbon (not original) at wrist forming a ruffle edge.

Skirt: Smooth front skirt hangs from empire seam and is entire width of fabric. Side back seams are (no side seams) selvage to selvage. Another full width of fabric creates the skirt back with 2 triangular godets between the front and back panels. Eight small pleats going toward center back on left and right give center back fullness below the waistline seam extending fullness to hem of garment. An open placket, approximately 6" long, at center back skirt below bodice buttons allows for garment entry. There is no center back seam. Hem is 1/4" turned up twice. Dress trains slightly in back.]]>
Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]>