1770-1780. Red Silk Open Robe
Fitted pieced bodice with low square front neckline and fitted elbow length sleeves. Rectangular shaped inset on left and right fronts near armholes connect to shoulder sections. Center fronts extend below waistline. No fasteners evident to secure left and right front sections of bodice. Back bodice created from pieces with a center back seam extending to deep V shape and shaped side back pieces that connect to pieced front bodice sections. Bodice, front and back, is lined with plain weave medium weight linen. A strip of more tightly woven linen is used on inside top edge of front neckline.
Elbow length sleeves feature two tucks at inside elbow to shape sleeve. Sleeves also lined with plain weave linen. Sleeves generally set-in style with squarer rather than round sleeve caps, points of the squares pointing toward each other in back.
Skirt: Very full with small pleats (about 3/8") controlling fullness at bodice/skirt seam. Skirt does not meet at center front. Petticoat is needed to fill gap at front of skirt. Open slits with finished edges at left and right hip of skirt to allow hands to access pockets. Linen tapes sewn to waist seam and skirt panel allow creation of rear bustle or polonaise effect when tied together.
HCT.1988.318.130
1770-1779
1770's Off white silk figured weave gown
Open robe and petticoat, off-white silk figured weave with pink and green floral pattern created with supplementary weft. Bodice closes in front with brass hook and eye closure, loose pleats in back creating 'robe a la francaise,' elbow length sleeves. Gown has brass loops and linen ties inside skirt of gown to enable pulling skirt up to create draping 'a la polonaise.'
Petticoat made from 6 panels, selvage to selvage and 2 narrower sections at side-backs with a godet at hem; pleated at waist with drawstring closure; has pocket slits at sides; Neck edge, front and hem of gown and front of petticoat trimmed with varying widths of striped gauze embroidered sporadically with pink, green and white motifs; pleated china silk trim w/pink and green tassel fringe on skirt fronts and front of petticoat only; some china silk pleating replaced with pleated gauze around neck, sleeve hems, and parts of petticoat and hem decoration. Bodice lined with linen; center back has 6 pairs of thread-worked eyelets in lining; center back seam stitched together.
HCT.1988.318.131ab
1770-1779
<span>Additional fiber images and information available at <a href="http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/1770-1779,_off_white_silk_figured_weave_gown,_silk_applied_puff_decorations" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.</a></span>