The gown is full length with a small bustle (separate piece) and a small train in back and ends in a two inch black chiffon dust ruffle. The high collar is made of a finely pin tucked tulle which is trimmed in a black metallic lace at the top of the collar and in a V at the bottom of the tulle on the bodice. The top of the collar is decorated with a line of small jet crystals.

The bodice features a central embroidered floral detail and is flanked on either side with large (approximately ¾ inch) tucks and embroidered trim. The tucks and trim frame the bodice, front and back, feathering horizontally from the shoulders to the elbows. From the elbows the sleeves change to the vertical pin tucks in the black silk chiffon, which are gathered into the lace cuffs. The cuffs close with loops and two tiny black tatting wheel buttons and two mother of pearl buttons.

The five different laces that decorate the gown run from the very fine floral lace at the waist and the oval motifs, to the heavier embroidered and corded laces of the bodice and sleeves. The large lace which runs down the length of the skirt and trims out the cuffs and the hem has a small geometric pattern. The metallic lace of the collar is more of a scroll design.

Thirty oval jet medallions are the main feature of this gown. They are about 2 - 2.5 inches long and are surrounded with smaller jet and black glass beads. Two sit vertically on the bodice at the corners of the embroidered detail, and six sit under the lace oval insets at the hips. Three decorate the waistline and are oriented horizontally, one is at the center front waistline and there are two above and below the waist at center back. The 25 other jet medallions sit horizontally above the hem of the skirt.
The gown closes at center back with 2 jet medallions (closed with hook and loop) at the waist, 17 tiny black corded knots and loops, and 6 mother of pearl buttons and loops (tulle collar).
The underdress is made of off-white organza, has a three layer pleated ruffle at the hem and a three layered ruffle in the bodice to fill out the silhouette of the mono-bosom.
]]>
Bodice. Hook and eye closing at left side. Short bodice with blouson insert at center front and pink pin-tucked silk yoke. Long sleeves with pink silk inserted puffs at wrists and pointed cuffs with off-white lace applique. Four inverted pleats at center back. Brown cotton lining with princess line seams instead of inverted pleats like outer layer. Bound edges. Boning with pink casing. Underbodice with hook and eye center front closure.
Skirt. Long gored skirt with 8" double flounce with 3 rows of top-stitching at hemline. Placket at center back, 2 large pleats on both center back panels. Brown lining with hand-overcast seams. Brown velvet bound hem.
Collar. Pink silk detachable 3" stand-up collar with pin-tucks and off-white applique.
Belt. 1 1/2" shaped belt with top-stitching and pointed edges.]]>
Blouse (bodice) : waist length pigeon pout bodice, longer in front- shorter in back; high band lace collar; 3/4 full balloon sleeves with narrow forearm band, which is trimmed with 9 rows of small ruffles; V shape center front and center back panel in vertical pin-tucks, trimmed with wide V rows of lace; shoulders trimmed with ruching, from here the side front and back panels are folded into tucks ending at the waistband; center back hook/eye closure; lined in silk satin fabric; waistband has eyes to hook the skirt to bodice.
Outer skirt : floor length with slight train; full skirt : flat front and gathered fullness at back; front decorated with two vertical bands stitched on at waistband and at calf length, these bands are pleated tucks ending in a knot with a flounce and an attached small ruffle; bottom of skirt trimmed with 6 rows of small ruffles; center back closure at waistband
Inner skirt : off-white silk satin material; 8 gore underskirt with flat front panel and fullness at the back; floor length with a slight train; bottom of skirt trimmed with 2 small flounces; closure at center back, opening of closure has pineapple material attached to it.
Belt: around 2 wide; off-white material covered with pineapple fabric; it consists of horizontal pleated tucks; the belt has a V shape, thus narrowing toward the back; center back 3 hook/eye closure
Collar : around 2 wide; off-white material covered with pineapple fabric; it consists of small vertical pleated tucks; slight V shape; center back 2 hook/eye closure.]]>
The inside of the sack coat has two double welt pockets, one on either side of the body, with the right at inside breast height and the left slated and at a natural waist height. The body of the coat is lined in a silk twill, while the sleeves are lined in a white and green striped silk. There are two rectangular pieces in the lining coming from the sleeve out two inches and about one inch wide. The collar is faced with a brown felt with both machine and hand pad-stitching.
Tag reads "Burns Columbus, Oh"
The waistcoat or vest is double breasted with two columns of four tortoise shell buttons that run down either side of the center front seam. The buttons begin wide at the top, approximately 6 inches apart, and taper inward to the bottom two buttons which are approximately 2.5 inches apart. The waistcoat has four single welt pockets, two at the breast and two at the waist and 1.5 inch vents at the bottom of the side seams. There is also a single welt pocket in the lining at the right breast.
The waistcoat is faced in a black silk and lined in a white polka dot jacquard with black pinstripes. There are two horizontal pleats in the front lining pieces (half an inch deep) for ease over the stomach. The back of the waistcoat is made in a taupe and gold plaid with a center back seam and a belt at the waist (tab and two prong fastener). There is a small inverted scallop at the center back hem of the vest.
The matching trousers have slightly tapered legs and a plain angled hem with heel guards hand stitched to the inside back of the hem. The waistband is on the cross-grain and has a V shaped notch at the center back. Just below the notch there is a tab and prong style belt for fit adjustment. The waistband also features 6 brace buttons (suspender buttons) in light brown Bakelite engraved with "+ Burns + Columbus, OH."
The fly is 11 inches long (including the waistband) and closes with four dark brown buttons (also Bakelite) and tab and button at the waistband.
There are five pockets; two inseam pockets, two double welt curved back pockets and one coin pocket in the seam between the waistband and the front pant leg on the right side. Side seams are sewn in a flat felled seam. The waistband facing is made of a bias cut white and brown stripe fabric with a "skirt" under that in a white and brown check. All interior edges have been hand over cast.]]>
Additional fiber images and information available at the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.]]>