Man's Purple Trench Coat
Daniel Hechter dark purple cotton knee length man's trench coat.
100% cotton trench coat, plain weave, with double collar and double lapel, dark purple under collar and under lapel with bright green upper collar and upper lapel. Purple collar section with drawstring to hold collar close to neck when collar worn standing up. Green second collar with two eyelet belt that fastens at center front. Buttoned storm yoke across back shoulder and on right front shoulder. Set in two-piece flat-felled sleeves with button tab at sleeve hem. Five button center front closure inside hidden placket. Slant pockets at front left and right hip with 1 1/2" wide multi-stitched (six rows) finish to form quilted effect. Similar quilted-stitching on separate buckle belt in matching purple fabric. Deep, approximately 18", center back vent in lower section of raincoat with one button closure midway through vent. Two inside breast pockets: left is zippered, right besom. Completely lined in plain weave percale-weight purple cotton. Flat fell seams throughout.
HCT.2009.11.20ab
Balmain Navy Trench Coat
Navy wool trench coat and belt. Double breasted, epaulets, straps at wrists, flap on right shoulder and metal ring /hook at neck front.
HCT.2005.1.3ab
Burberry Raincoat
Coat in dark gray cotton twill with flat collar. Long two piece raglan sleeve with button tab at sleeve hem. Slanted pass through pockets with flap; flap fastened with 1" black sew through button/buttonhole. Center front closure of four 1 1/4" black sew through buttons and button holes in hidden placket. 3/4" button at lower edge fastens to buttonhole tab
Button at neck fastens to exposed buttonhole. Buttoned back vent. Lining in tan black and red plaid. Large patch pockets accessed from coat front. b.) Self belt with leather buckle, 2" X 52".
1970-1979
Pauline Trigère Vinyl Raincoat
Navy and white striped vinyl raincoat; trapeze or tent silhouette; round neckline with narrow band collar (mandarin style); very wide bell shape sleeves, open underarm seam; center front: white plastic large detachable zipper; diagonal slant pockets with white zipper closure; raincoat lined in navy jersey knit fabric
HCT.1998.32.1
1965-1969
Kamali Denim Coat
Blue denim duster style coat, raglan sleeve, orange top stitching, metal stud buttons.
HCT.1997.7.7
1979-1983
1960's Clear Vinyl Rain Cape
Clear plastic rain cape with black dots and black trim at arm slits, front opening, collar and hem; four snap closures on the front; vertical slash openings for arms at side fronts; detachable snap-on hood has black trim around front edge.
HCT.1994.782.73
1960-1969
Donald Brooks Raincoat
Rain coat with zip-in wool plaid lining, belt and scarf
a) Raincoat in brown woven treated cotton, A-line princess cut with wide pointed collar; Long set in two piece sleeves; Side pockets concealed in flaps; flaps are underlined in black/tan/red/white houndstooth check, Center front closure of 7 1" tan sew through buttons/buttonholes; Buttonholes are concealed under flaps underlined in multi houndstooth
Two wide belt carriers above pocket flaps; Fully lined in pale orange rayon taffeta
b) Zip out lining in multi houndstooth check wool
c) Self tie belt, 70" X 2"
d) Wool scarf of multi hounds-tooth that matches lining, 96" X 4"
HCT.1987.244.3a-d
1970
1950s Black, Orange & Pink Raincoat
Black/pink/orange satin weave coat lined in heavy black taffeta. Pink and orange abstract leaf pattern on black ground. Reefer shape with princess seams with bust dart, patch pockets. 5 large buttons and bound buttonholes. Raglan sleeve. Half belt buttoned to back with 2 large buttons and bound buttonholes.
HCT.1985.7.19
1954-1955
All Wrapped Up
All Wrapped Up: A Sampling of Fashionable Outerwear celebrates spring semester’s transition from cold wintry temperatures into wet spring months with an exhibition of the garments that help keep us warm and dry. It is a history of fashion in the guise of capes, coats, and cloaks showcasing objects of luxurious adornment, exquisite tailoring, and practical utility.
Luxurious evening wraps are most plentiful in the decades of the opulent Belle Epoque, (1871-1914) and during the flamboyant 1920s Jazz Age and 1930s era of Hollywood glamor, while attention to tailoring and design detail is well paid in the wool coats for daywear from the late 19th century through to designer examples at the end of the 20th century. Iconic examples of outerwear such as the trench coat, as well as the bomber jacket, evolved from military fashions, while other jackets such as the motorcycle and jean jacket rose out of popular culture and the working classes.
The onset of the automobile required use of an overcoat, the duster, which was worn to protect one’s clothing underneath from the dust that would come into the windowless vehicles. Later in its history, shorter car coats evolved, eliminating the longer skirts of coats that got caught up in one’s feet while trying to drive.
A look at outerwear over the decades provides insight into not only the social history and popular culture prevalent at the time of its wearing, but also a glimpse into the science and technology of fabrics and fibers in the effort to keep us warm and dry. Coated wool fibers were developed early on for use in trench coats to keep out the rain, while in later years, plastics and plastic coatings found use in raincoats. Heavy wool overcoats provided warmth because of wool’s natural thermal characteristics for decades, but when down coats emerged on the fashion scene in the 1980s, they were warmer than wool and weighed significantly less.
Coats and outerwear are often seen only as practical and functional items of clothing and are overlooked for their design merit and aesthetic appeal. With this exhibition, we hope to change that point of view and build appreciation for outerwear that, in addition to having a utilitarian purpose, can also be fun, elegant and expressive.
Jean-Philippe Worth Evening Coat
Evening cape, full length. Black silk satin body, robe style with front V neck closing open to hem, fastened right over left with hook and loop, both metal covered with cord. Black silk lace, pomegranate motif, located in mass over shoulders, in two strip widths down both sides of front opening edges, one-strip width down center back. Also located in mass at sleeve cap, two strip width around sleeve underarm and sleeve hem. Shoulder and sleeve also have diamond-shaped patches of beading set on top of lace. Beading on sleeves ends just above lace hem, with a black silk tassel on each sleeve. Outer sleeve is a set-in bell style with a wide hem: Sleeve length is longer at the inseam than the outside. Undersleeve is a set in bishop style made in silk chiffon with cartridge pleats at cap and wrist. Cuff is two strip width of same lace. Chiffon bishop sleeve joined with inseam, but allowed to form extremely wide bell appendage, also pleated. Appendage has a ruffled chiffon trim at hem. Body of cape, outer bell sleeve and under bishop sleeve full lined with black silk satin jacquard with a lily motif.
HCT.1993.318.4
1905