Cream Wool Walking Dress
Ivory serge dress with apricot satin underlining; black chiffon collar with Valenciennes lace sewn on top; black silk chiffon on cuffs with Valenciennes lace as a ruffle on bottom of sleeve; high lace neck with pink chiffon trim and black velvet bowtie; 30 satin wrapped embroidered buttons; silk lining in bodice - no lining in skirt; unusual construction; two large cut-outs revealing satin underneath with false button closure; apricot satin extends past ivory serge to the floor; slightly high-waisted to create fullness in front of bodice; hook closure in lining in front of bodice.
Maison Deslandes
Madame Agnes Sr.
31 BIS Rue du Sentier
Paris
HCT.1995.999.69
c.1911
Fashion and Music
Music and dress are a reflection of society at any given point in time. The diverse population of the United States has always, and continues to, influence both music and fashion. This exhibition displays artifacts tracing the history of American music and their influence on fashion. Beginning with the turn of the 20th century, it follows the relationship between fashion and music from its beginnings in vaudeville and with itinerant country singers to the current fashion companies run by rap superstars. From folk music to hip-hop, and related dress trends, from flapper dresses to Timberland boots, this exhibit provides examples of the interplay between music and fashion trends. Moreover, it examines how human behavior is influenced by the use of dress and how music serves as a means of communication between individuals.
Over 50 examples are on display in the Gladys Keller Snowden gallery, along with interactive links to listen to the top 10 songs of the decades of the 20th century.
Marlise Schoeny, Assistant Curator, Co-curator of this exhibit
Dr. Julie Hillery, Co-Curator of this exhibit
09/24/2021-04/30/2022
Kelly, Patrick; 1989, black wool knit Eiffel Tower design dress
Black knit short-med length turtleneck with long sleeves, Eiffel Tower design in silver buttons. Fall 1989
Patrick Kelly
HCT.1990.564.1
Fall 1989 (Collection created in celebration of bi-centennial of French Revolution)
<span>Additional fiber images and information available at <a href="http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/1980-1989,_Kelly,_Patrick,_black_wool_knit_Eiffel_Tower_design_dress,_wool" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.</a></span>
1770-1780. Red Silk Open Robe
Fitted pieced bodice with low square front neckline and fitted elbow length sleeves. Rectangular shaped inset on left and right fronts near armholes connect to shoulder sections. Center fronts extend below waistline. No fasteners evident to secure left and right front sections of bodice. Back bodice created from pieces with a center back seam extending to deep V shape and shaped side back pieces that connect to pieced front bodice sections. Bodice, front and back, is lined with plain weave medium weight linen. A strip of more tightly woven linen is used on inside top edge of front neckline.
Elbow length sleeves feature two tucks at inside elbow to shape sleeve. Sleeves also lined with plain weave linen. Sleeves generally set-in style with squarer rather than round sleeve caps, points of the squares pointing toward each other in back.
Skirt: Very full with small pleats (about 3/8") controlling fullness at bodice/skirt seam. Skirt does not meet at center front. Petticoat is needed to fill gap at front of skirt. Open slits with finished edges at left and right hip of skirt to allow hands to access pockets. Linen tapes sewn to waist seam and skirt panel allow creation of rear bustle or polonaise effect when tied together.
HCT.1988.318.130
1770-1779
1780-1789. Man's Cutaway Coat
Brown/green striped velvet coat that does not close but gradually tapers from center front neck to the sides and has a center back vent. Coat has a 3.5" high stand collar and long two piece sleeves with 4" wide self fabric cuffs. The front is cut on the bias so stripes angle in toward the neck. The coat has 2 deep - 12" wide hip pockets with shaped pocket flaps. Four inch wide floral sprig (daisy, and other wild flowers) embroidery decorates the center front, cuffs, back, collar and pockets, along with a line of off-white satin stitch and satin-stitch covered paper circles. Nine fabric and embroidery-covered buttons and button holes decorate the front of the coat; six button holes are cut open, 4 have uncut embroidered lines. Three buttons decorate each sleeve and each pocket. The coat is lined with off-white silk satin except for the center back which is flannel. The embroidery sections are reinforced with jute backing. There is no lining in the sleeves.
HCT.1989.318.45
1780-1789
<span>Additional fiber images and information available at <a href="http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/1780-1789,_Man%27s_Cutaway_Coat,_flax_back_lining" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">the CAMEO Materials Database at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston.</a></span>
1790-1810, Man's Cotton Vest
Man's off-white cotton vest with alternating vertical stripes of 1" plain weave and 3/4" twill (15 ribs) pattern stripe; notched lapel, hip welt pockets 10 covered-button closure with additional row of buttons to left; collar, lapels, front edges and hems, buttons and pocket welts embellished with flat metal sequins, and metal thread chainstitch and purple, blue and yellow thread embroidery of a fine tracery pattern; back of collar off-white plain weave cotton; back, pocket linings and lining of vest of off-white linen; hand-stitched.
HCT.2003.42.7
1790-1810
1820-1839 Man's Coat
Natural-color cotton tail coat; double breasted with notched lapels. Garment is completely stitched by hand. Fall of collar is four inches wide. Hand stitches evident around back neck of collar at fall (or fold) line and approximately one inch below on stand of collar, possibly to give extra body to collar shape. Collar does not appear to have any interfacing or additional stiffening.
HCT.1988.425.4
1820-1839
1840s Brown Silk Dress
Dark brown silk satin damask gown with rose motif; pointed bodice and v-neck; shirred sleeves with shirring down front of bodice to point; piping along waistline; shirred ruffle down front of skirt (off center).
HCT.1988.318.141
1840-1849
1850-1852, Boy's Dress
Blue horizontally ribbed silk boy's tunic/dress has natural neckline with no collar, long 2-piece sleeves and corded waist seam. Box pleated skirt has 2 3/4 band at hem that is finished with cording. (This could be a later addition since the lining fabric is a different color from the rest of the dress.) Dress has center front button opening with seven 11/16 diameter mother of pearl buttons and hand worked button holes. Dress is padded with batting and lined with off-white china silk, all hand stitched.
HCT.1986.117.2
1850-1852
1855-65, Brown Wool Floral Print Dress
Dark brown wool challis screen printed floor length dress with horizontal bands of geometric floral motif in tan, blue and red/orange.
Bodice with round piped neckline and center front opening to waistline has 11 goldstone(see notes) buttons and buttonholes closure. Button shanks secured through unfinished holes in bodice with strip of brown twill fabric that runs through shanks and is stitched to bodice underlining; hand-worked buttonholed. Rectangular strip of self fabric (2.5" x 1/5") at center front lower proper right edge of bodice extends from under right bodice and has two hooks to secure bodice and full skirt beneath in place. Hooks fasten to metal loops on small fabric extension under bodice front left and attached to skirt front left. Two darts on each side of front bodice from waistline seam and extending toward bust form V-shaped design. Bodice back with curved and top-stitched princess seam from center back waist to mid-point of back armscye. Shoulder seam slightly to back of garment. Piped waistline seam. Bodice fronts underlined with light brown cotton twill fabric, bodice backs lined with light brown cotton plain weave.
Pagoda sleeves set into dropped shoulder piped armscye with stitched-down box pleats to control fullness at sleeve cap. Two inch black velvet band encircles and trims edge of sleeve hem. Sleeves lined with blue cotton chintz and faced with dark brown cotton chintz.
Very full, floor length skirt--6 selvage to selvage panels ~24" wide, unlined with cartridge pleats at waistline seam. Ten inch long open placket below waistline seam of skirt slightly left center front. Hem faced 5" wide with blue cotton chintz fabric found in sleeve linings. Brown wool braid finishes edge of skirt hem.
One inseam pocked of tan cotton chintz in skirt right front. Same chintz faces cartridge pleats.
Garment entirely hand-stitched.
HCT.1995.999.11