1855-65, Brown Wool Floral Print Dress
Description
Dark brown wool challis screen printed floor length dress with horizontal bands of geometric floral motif in tan, blue and red/orange.
Bodice with round piped neckline and center front opening to waistline has 11 goldstone(see notes) buttons and buttonholes closure. Button shanks secured through unfinished holes in bodice with strip of brown twill fabric that runs through shanks and is stitched to bodice underlining; hand-worked buttonholed. Rectangular strip of self fabric (2.5" x 1/5") at center front lower proper right edge of bodice extends from under right bodice and has two hooks to secure bodice and full skirt beneath in place. Hooks fasten to metal loops on small fabric extension under bodice front left and attached to skirt front left. Two darts on each side of front bodice from waistline seam and extending toward bust form V-shaped design. Bodice back with curved and top-stitched princess seam from center back waist to mid-point of back armscye. Shoulder seam slightly to back of garment. Piped waistline seam. Bodice fronts underlined with light brown cotton twill fabric, bodice backs lined with light brown cotton plain weave.
Pagoda sleeves set into dropped shoulder piped armscye with stitched-down box pleats to control fullness at sleeve cap. Two inch black velvet band encircles and trims edge of sleeve hem. Sleeves lined with blue cotton chintz and faced with dark brown cotton chintz.
Very full, floor length skirt--6 selvage to selvage panels ~24" wide, unlined with cartridge pleats at waistline seam. Ten inch long open placket below waistline seam of skirt slightly left center front. Hem faced 5" wide with blue cotton chintz fabric found in sleeve linings. Brown wool braid finishes edge of skirt hem.
One inseam pocked of tan cotton chintz in skirt right front. Same chintz faces cartridge pleats.
Garment entirely hand-stitched.
Bodice with round piped neckline and center front opening to waistline has 11 goldstone(see notes) buttons and buttonholes closure. Button shanks secured through unfinished holes in bodice with strip of brown twill fabric that runs through shanks and is stitched to bodice underlining; hand-worked buttonholed. Rectangular strip of self fabric (2.5" x 1/5") at center front lower proper right edge of bodice extends from under right bodice and has two hooks to secure bodice and full skirt beneath in place. Hooks fasten to metal loops on small fabric extension under bodice front left and attached to skirt front left. Two darts on each side of front bodice from waistline seam and extending toward bust form V-shaped design. Bodice back with curved and top-stitched princess seam from center back waist to mid-point of back armscye. Shoulder seam slightly to back of garment. Piped waistline seam. Bodice fronts underlined with light brown cotton twill fabric, bodice backs lined with light brown cotton plain weave.
Pagoda sleeves set into dropped shoulder piped armscye with stitched-down box pleats to control fullness at sleeve cap. Two inch black velvet band encircles and trims edge of sleeve hem. Sleeves lined with blue cotton chintz and faced with dark brown cotton chintz.
Very full, floor length skirt--6 selvage to selvage panels ~24" wide, unlined with cartridge pleats at waistline seam. Ten inch long open placket below waistline seam of skirt slightly left center front. Hem faced 5" wide with blue cotton chintz fabric found in sleeve linings. Brown wool braid finishes edge of skirt hem.
One inseam pocked of tan cotton chintz in skirt right front. Same chintz faces cartridge pleats.
Garment entirely hand-stitched.
Source
HCT.1995.999.11
Provenance
This dress is from the Traphagen School of Fashion Collection. It was purchased in 1943 from Mrs. H. N. Willis, NY. Several objects from the Traphagen School were donated to OSU HCTC in 1995.
Design Elements
Bell-Shaped Sleeve, Hourglass Silhouette
Fiber/Fabric Information
Wool
Decade
1860-1869
Files
Collection
Citation
“1855-65, Brown Wool Floral Print Dress,” Fashion2Fiber, accessed April 25, 2024, https://fashion2fiber.osu.edu/items/show/574.